Paying tribute to the iconic 356A Speedster, this Porsche replica was meticulously built from 2020 to 2025. Powered by a mid-mounted 2.5-liter turbocharged Subaru WRX four-cylinder engine paired with a 5-speed manual transmission, the build includes 17” Enkei FD-05 wheels, grey diamond-stitched upholstery with red piping, MacPherson strut front suspension, rear double upper wishbone suspension, power-assisted four-wheel disc brakes with nickel-plated and ventilated rotors, carbon pads, and much more. Driven approximately 200 miles since completion, this comprehensive build is now being offered for auction by its seller out of Texas.
Built on a professionally engineered structural steel wide-track chassis, this example features complementary wide fiberglass bodywork finished in Soul Red Crystal (46V) from Mazda’s paint collection. Exterior details include Porsche-style badging, chrome trim, polished dual mirrors, protective headlight grilles, nerf bars, custom rear decklid vents, polished dual exhaust outlets, and teardrop-style taillights. Red-finished brake calipers sit behind 17” Enkei FD-05 wheels wrapped in new Toyo R888R 225/45ZR17 tires. Detailed images are provided in the photo gallery.
Inside, grey diamond-stitched leather with red piping adorns the heated front bucket seats. Matching leather covers the door panels and dashboard, accented by body-color trim. Additional features include a wood-rimmed three-spoke steering wheel, two-speed windshield wipers, green-lettered enlarged analog instrumentation, a Bluetooth-only stereo, a phone mount, a center console-mounted gauge, cup holders, and Coco floor mats. Two-level heat, defrost, and air conditioning are also equipped.
The mid-mounted 2.5-liter turbocharged flat-four engine is sourced from a 2012 Subaru WRX with 61k miles and is managed by a factory-correct Subaru ECU with OBDII CAN-BUS telemetry. Emissions equipment, including catalytic converters, a charcoal canister, and a functional check engine light, is retained to meet EPA standards. Factory-rated at 265 HP and 244 lb-ft of torque, output is estimated at approximately 300 HP with the addition of a cold air intake, free-flowing stainless exhaust, and a high-performance intercooler. Power is sent to the rear wheels through a Subaru 5-speed manual transmission converted from all-wheel drive, utilizing custom-built race-quality cables and a custom shift mechanism. The suspension consists of adjustable MacPherson struts with coil spring height adjustment up front and a rear setup with double upper wishbone control arms, adjustable shocks, and coil springs. Additional features include heavy-duty fully adjustable race-type control arms, quick-ratio manual rack-and-pinion steering, power-assisted brakes with vented rotors and carbon pads, and a switchable Subaru anti-lock brake system (ABS).
This Speedster replica is offered with a bill of sale.
The seller would like you to know: “Upon successful completion of a ground-up build of a 1966 Cobra replica and many rebuilt cars, my car-building interest turned towards the famous Porsche 356A Speedster. I began searching the industry for DIY kits and discovered a company offering a turnkey version whose iconic appearance is the most accurate available anywhere, but whose underpinnings are anything but Volkswagen. At first, they were hesitant to sell a kit-type package, cautioning me that the intricacy and demanding technical requirements of the complex build might exceed my capabilities. After six months of back-and-forth wrangling, I finally convinced them that I would adhere to their proven process and safety features and become a diligent student under their guidance (which was professional, consistent, and thorough all the way to completion). So, the adventure began. This has been a labor of love. My last out of about 20 builds since 1960. At just under 82 years old, my health no longer allows me to continue. This is the most fun attention attracting car of them all and I appreciate your interest. The most unique, but not the only, aspect of this build is the mid-engine layout."
Comments (59)
@outlawspeedster Pat
214-six16-2four77.
@outlawspeedster if you look up “Reach Architects” website (it’s just the name and dot com) under contact is my cell.
@an_architect I might have a little interest
How can I contact you?
Look up Dr. Richard Urbanek in Wichita Falls or Southlake
@Dr_U sure. Don’t know the process to talk on this site
I am very much interested in your car. I live primarily in Wichita Falls, but spend weekends in our Southlake house. I would like to come see this on a Saturday. Let me know if that works for you. Thanks
@an_architect I haven’t thought about a trade. I’ll think about it. Be back to Texas Thursday and be back in touch Thks
Any interest in a trade? I’ve put about $20k into this one on top of the purchase.
https://www.pcarmarket.com/auction/marketplace-1967-ford-mustang-gt500-restomod/
Bid in the amount of $30,000
Love this build and color.
@JPD There are a couple of companies that can provide tops. One in particular does fold down in the area behind the seats but does not impede access to the engine vital checks (belts,oil,water). In order to respect not using the auction as a free advertisement for vendors I will gladly reveal them after the auction.
Bid in the amount of $25,000
Thank you for your response. What is the name and location of the "company" that supplied you with the kit?
I assume that is where a new owner would purchase a top and side curtains. Hopefully the "company" would have a fold down top available that works without the benefit of storage in the area behind the seats as it is filled with a mid-location engine.
@Jhilderbran no top, but custom top and custom side curtains are available
@JPD The device you are referring to is an adjustable fan control switch and the heat exchanger you refer to is the radiator. The dangling wire is the temperature probe inserted into the core of the radiator. The Subaru ECU which is part of the engine management on this car has circuitry that controls the SUbaru fan's on and off temperatures, however they are preset and cannot be changed. I wanted to be able to choose my own temperature set points as well as constant on based on my perceived needs like long term idling at Cars and Coffee events where constant on fan makes sense as well as my choice of those on/off temperatures. Only the fan is affected by this control and all of the other engine management needs for temperature monitoring are provided by the Subaru temperature sending unit. The ECU fan wiring controls are still there and the fan control could be converted back if desired.
One of a kind-- this is the only wide body mid engine turbo WRX. there are many Cabs and speedsters with mid engine non turbo power built by others.
The car has never been tracked, I am 82 and all that is behind me. The 200 miles are in my little town and around. Never been stopped
One of my convincing reasons to buy this DIY kit and its proven technology provided support by the company was that all of the legitimate concerns you are asking about are what the designer was concerned about and they were all solved 20 years ago. I have not been disappointed with their solutions. I have heard of a half dozen of the 100 + turnkey's that have been delivered with tens of thousands of miles some driven coast to coast and back with no temperature issues.
Bid in the amount of $20,103
I believe JPD is referring to picture #62. And it’s a good question. IMHO
Does it have a top
@1966GC sorry the videos were posted yesterday--hope they help
Sorry for the typo, the photo reference in my previous message should be #57
Sir, in picture 67, there is a thermometer and switch, in ⁰C scale, with a red line marked at 130⁰C, with a probe hanging freely on the cool air inlet side of the down draft engine heat exchanger. Could you provide an explanation as to why this is placed there,, why it has a "sharpie"marked red line. Does it actually control a light / switch for safety shutdown ? This goes back to my concern and original question about limiting ambient when the inlet flow through the heat exchanger is directed from inside the engine compartment rather than fresh air through a louvered rear hood, etc.
Further, could you explain your 200 miles of driving experience with the car, being that not is neither titled/registered. Was part of the run ins at a track or ? under continuous load conditions on a hot Texas day? Your sign at the "cars and coffee".States one of a kind yet you responded there are other cars
in Arizona and Bahrain, both high temp climate.
I am interested in your car, however I am not comfortable that the mid-engine layoiy with the cooling system, radiator, intercooler and a/c condenser are sorted out. With mid engine heat, no fresh air
cool air inlets and a tight engine compartment, there are significant challenges.
Anything further you could add to remove doubt as to operational performance and reliability of the cooling system under driving under high continuous load conditions in the heat would be appreciated, Thank you in advance.
Were you going to do another driving video?
@txcarrera Well i looked again t the radiator, another thing that makes it look worse are the black spots. They are grease from construction. I have cleaned those up not and it looks much better.
@1966GC HELLO, I have looked more closely at the mysterious ringing heard on some videos accompanying the description which I cannot hear while driving the car. Since this ringing is heard only when the engine is accelerating and the camera is in certain proximity to the exhaust I made some comparisons. When inside the car or closely around it the intensity of the ringing is affected by engine speed and exhaust location relative to the camera, but remains about the same in all cases. However, in the drive-by video the noise intensity was greatly magnified as the car drove by at 40 mph and 25+ ft away from the camera. Unlike the other videos the exhaust was not muffled or obstructed by body structure or direction and was totally open to surroundings. A mechanical noise would not be louder 25 ft away. I suggest that the recorded ringing noise is a microphone sensitivity distortion caused by the exhaust impulses. In conjunction another microphone distortion which can clearly be heard on the video is the wind buffeting which I also cannot hear driving but like the ringing noise is on the video. I should do like professional photographers when filming outside, wrap the microphone in a foam sock and the adverse noises will go away. Just a suggestion
@1966GC Thanks again for the question. There are new video postings underway. I still hear no ringing. There is a vibration that you can hear in the cabin, but it is not drive train related.
Bid in the amount of $17,750
@JPD all is full leather--two hides. The exhaust is much shorter and a free flow muffler, cold air intake and a small cat. .Guessing the ncrease in HP. The AWD has been changed to two wheel drive, still all Subaru except those changes. Not limited slip. Stock ratio. Bulkhead between the engine and seats id marine plywood with carpet and sound deadening. I do have a full wiring diagram book. Brake calipers are stock WRX, Rotors are aftermarket, hubs are Subaru.
@1966GC I'll be back tonight and try to get a couple of videos in the morning
Some explanation as to the brake caliper would be informative, rotor hub setup, what it is from? Or aftermarket?
Is the firewall between the seatback and engine compartment carpet covered plywood?
Do you have a some form of a wiring schematic/diagram from the build?
Confirming upholstery, seats, door panels, dash is actual "leather" and not faux.
Somewhat confused about the statement retaining the Cats forSmog yet " free-flowing stainless exhaust" to boost output, please explain further.
Is the rear end a standard diff, limited slip or locking from the altered AWD Subaru.
Trans.
Was the rear end ratio changed or kept as stock? What is the engine RPM at 70mph?
Thanks in advance for your responses!
I am sorry, can’t get over the ringing sound while you’re are driving in the video. Wish you could figure that out or do another video.
@JPD Hi JPD, The tiny bent fins on the radiator deflect very easily and are very minor. Many were caused in packing and shipping from the manufacture. It is almost impossible to keep them perfect during years of construction. There is no stone or debris from the tires that can hit the radiator.
The drivers side is the radiator.
The rusticated thin aluminum cover under the deck is decor only. The deck is non-functional like the aircooled cars. The plate just covers an access.
Thank you for the explanation..... why is there so much fin damage on the Driver's side heat exchanger? Is it from stone/debris pick up off the tires as there are no rear fender liners?
Is the drivers side heat exchanger the engine cooling and the passenger side the a/c condensor?
Why is there a solid aluminum? plate covering the center air intake on the rear
hood? Does it not impedes air flow to the intercooler?
@JPD Thanks for your very informed question which deserves an equally informed answer. When I was considering undertaking this challenging project the cooling issues were discussed thoroughly Because of my location . The designer of this car, a former Ford Motor Company design engineer, explained this very important design criteria. There are three cooling challenges to be addressed. The radiator, the AC condenser, and the turbo intercooler.
The increased volume RADIATOR was designed using heat load input from a prominent drag racing cooling expert. Additionally, the technical fabrication skills and quality of AFCO performance parts are employed. The radiator is judicially located and coupled with a down draft shrouded fan. A couple of his turnkey cars have performed well for ten years in Phoenix AZ and seven years in Bahrain Mideast both historic hot spots.
The AC CONDENSER is remotely located and not located in line with the radiator and is therefore not burdened by its radiant heat. Vice versa the condenser heat is not dumped into the radiator. It is cooled by an AC system independently controlled fan. This system has performed well in The previously mentioned hot environments.
The turbo INTERCOOLER is a substantially oversized high performance aftermarket product. Like the Subaru It is located atop the engine using the significant engine compartment natural air flow for cooling, but not impeded by the small hood scoop opening and lamellar gradient losses from the hood.
Yes, the ring sounds are only present on the videos driving in the car. Seems to be when you accelerate. It is unmistakable in the video. Perhaps you should make another driving video?
Sir, could you please provide and explanation as to how the intercooler and radiatior pass enough airflow to be effective to reduce induction temperature and provide enough heat rejection to keep that mid engine cool.
Amy idea as to the limiting ambient temperature under load?
What is the highrlest temp (hottest) Texas day you have run it hard with the a/c on .
Essentially are there any problems keeping power plant cool?
@1966GC After listening carefully to all the videos which were taken at 4 different locations and conditions in and around the car in which the noise stayed the same, I am assuming that the audio may be affected by the exhaust noise and frequency which does not stay the same. I cannot hear the noise while driving the car or standing beside the car. Suffice it to say, there are no unusual noises coming from the engine or the transmission.
It's a really nice build, not trying to run down the car. I just listened to the videos again and it sounds exactly like an old style phone ringing. And it gets louder when getting on the gas. It is unmistakable, everyone is hearing this, please explain what this is? I am very hesitant to bid without explanation of that sound going on.
I was must ask about the same sound issue, about the dinging I heard on the drive videos as well? It sounds almost like something hitting the bell housing, a ringing or dinging. Can you please have someone else with you listen for this sound to confirm it’s source or confirm non-existence?
Bid in the amount of $17,500
Bid in the amount of $15,000
@txcarrera Thanks for the information
Yes he build photos will be very helpful
They want to know that there is a hand built chassis and body in order for this vehicle to qualify for a smog exempt SB-100 registered vehicle
@VaheA I have an exhaustive library of detailed photos from the very start to completion. Examples of these are shown on the auction photos. However; I will be happy to furnish for you a complete photo journey of my process for your use and history of the car.
This car meets all the smog controls of the Subaru WRX, Emissions equipment, including catalytic converters, a charcoal canister, and a functional check engine light, is retained to meet EPA standards.
Bid in the amount of $10,000
@txcarrera Thanks for the prompt response
Would you be kind to provide some details photos of the build after the sales go through?
The reason I am asking is this
California air resource board have become very strict and now they require build pictures if you want to register the vehicle as a smog exempt vehicle
@VaheA Sorry, been on the road. The car has not been registured in TX as so to avoid additional costs to be passed on the the new owner. Each state has provisions for registuring self built cars. All states require a MCO (Manufacture's Certificate of Orgin) for the base kit of the build. The MCO has a unique identification number which appear on the completed car, States also require proof of ownershipof the driveline in the car with proof of ownership of the driveline along with the VIN of the car from which it was removed. Typically no other verification is required.
The car will be delivered with a verified MCO with a unique ID number. The MCO will identify the body as a 1957 356A Speedster. The MCO number will be on the body of the car. A bill of sale for the body/ frame used to build referencing the MCO number. A bill of sale for the Subaru driveline parts used for the build referencing the VIN of the Donor Car. I will provide these documents and a notorized statement of ownership of the car and parts. This is typical provenance required.
The ringing must be a glitch in the video, I don't hear it.
Thanks for the questions, it's not as comlicated as this sounds.
Hi there
Beautiful car and a great build
I have a few questions
1. What year make and model
Does it state on the car’s Texas title?
I live in California and it is very important for me to know about the year make and model.
Any car before 1975 we do not need emissions and I understand this car does have all the emissions on it. Yet it will be very hard to Register the car in California if it is a car with year newer than 1975 since it is a hand build vehicle.
2. I noticed a ringing noise on your driving video. Is that an existing noise in The vehicle or it is a glitch in the video
Bid in the amount of $500
@txcarrera Another follow up to your roll bar question. This car has no top. The kit provider will be happy to supply the top to precisely fit the car. The custom chassis frame is 4" lower on the inside than the VW framed kits. This allows headroom and allows you to look out of the windshield, not over it. It will also alow room for your desired roll bar.
@sculptedmetal Hi and thanks for the comments and compliments. 1. I was 6' 1 before my back gave out and would guess 6' to 6'1" would be fine. It would depend more on leg length. 2. Yes, on the roll bar, I am an old track guy and built her for track and show. There is a solid mount available straight to the frame. Roll bars are a personal pick, so I did not mount one. 3. Those are not rock chips; looking, I think they are reflections from behind the camera. The 4 part paint is very reflective. There are two small repaired places by the passanger side heqad light that are difficult to find. Look at the other photos. 4. Good question on service. Any Subaru dealer in America would be right at home in the engine bay and can service all the mechanicals. Speciality WRX tuners can also service it and usually at a cheaper cost.
@txcarrera
Beautiful car. I have some questions.
1. How tall can the driver be with the top up?
2. Can a roll bar be mounted?
3. Are there rock chips in the paint (e.g., photos 106, 114)?
4. Who can service the engine on this elaborate build?
Thank you for bringing this beautiful car to PCar!
@PaulGri Sorry, that was supposed to say NEW springs, NOT bew
@skalra Thank you. Yes this is a phenomenal build as you observed. Since I just recently completed the road testing of the car and decided to sell it I did not register it in my state so I would not have to pay registration fees to be passed on to the next owner. So it definitely is not a salvage title nor is there a lien on the car or parts. However, I do have a transferable MCO (Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin) for the kit used in the build and a Bill of sale for the Subaru donor parts used in the build along with a VIN of the car from which the parts were taken. Every State will require these two documents for registering a DIY built car. My Bill Of Sale will be notarized and will address these items.
This is a phenomenal build! What kind of a title does the car have? Salvage? Is there a lien on the car?
@txcarrera A little more tech. the springs are bew and will settle after about 1000 miles. The racing suspension is fully adjustable after settling the bump steer will not change with evening the car level
@PaulGri Thanks, The shot from the corner is shot from the camera looking up, please see the other photos for perspective.
Love the color and interior detailing. But I have to ask about the stance; the front end looks curiously elevated. Can you explain why?
Welcome to the auction of my hand built Porsche Speedster replica.
I look forward to promptly answering any questions you might have concerning the car. It has been a 4+ year journey to build this Speedster. I hope you like it as much as I do. The time has come to pass it on to someone else who has the same passion for it that I have had.
Jan Tubbs