Vehicle Details
- Year: 1961
- Make: Porsche
- Model: 356 Outlaw
- VIN: 115811
- Mileage Shown: 84,700
- Transmission: Manual
- Title Status: Clear
- Color: Dark Green
- Seller: outlawmaven
- Seller Type: Private Party
- Location: Albuquerque, NM 87122
- Lot #: V-0005787
Up for auction is this custom outlaw-style 1961 Porsche 356 T5 presented in a custom shade of green over a tan cabin. Purchased as a running project car by the current owner in 2019, this 356 has undergone a custom outlaw-style conversion with unique visual modifications as well as some noteworthy mechanical upgrades including a Porsche 912 flat-four engine. Now showing approximately 84k miles on the odometer (TMU), this one of a kind 356 is being offered by its seller out of New Mexico in superb driving condition.
Upon the commencement of the build, this T5 was professionally refinished in a custom shade of green. The exterior finish is noted to be in great shape with a few small areas of rust (detailed images are provided in the photo gallery). Visual details include shaved trim and chrome brightwork as well as a front and rear bumper delete with all holes filled in. This 356 rides on reproduction chrome “Wide 5” wheels which come dressed in new Yokohama tires.
The cabin has been reupholstered in tan leatherette with refurbished seats, added seatbelts, new seals and a custom black leather steering wheel. The interior is reported to be in excellent condition with all gauges and accessories remaining fully functional with the exception of the clock and original Blaupunkt radio.
Power comes from a “speed shop-built” Porsche 912 flat-four engine which is mated to a 4-speed manual transmission. Performance upgrades include a Bursch type exhaust, performance headers, a heater delete, front disc brakes and Koni shocks.
This 356 is said to be in great running order with the following maintenance items carried out under the current ownership within the last 18 months.
- Rebuilt Weber Carburetors
- New Fuel Sending Unit
- New Fuel Tank
- New Petcock with Steel Lines to Carbs
- Stainless Steel Oil Lines
- New Boge Damper
- New Shift Bushings
- New Transmission Couplings
- Change all Fluids and Filters
- New 6V Battery Installed with Cutoff Switch
The sale of this one of a kind build will include 2 keys, books and records. This unique 356 is just waiting to put a smile on the face of its next owner, do not miss out.
Auction Results
- Highest Bid: $40,500
- Auction End: Sep 02, 2020 07:30:45PM UTC
- Number of Bids: 9
Comments (19)
Bid in the amount of $40,500
Bid in the amount of $39,000
Bid in the amount of $37,500
Bid in the amount of $35,356
@Fed and others
HQ was able to post additional pics .
Thanks to all for interest and bids. Review of history and progress to date has been personally very gratifying and enjoyable - a True Bonus!
@outlawmaven History is that car sat indoors since death of builder ~12+ years ago, and previously new/restored "parts and pieces"deteriorated, namely brakes, fuel system (then new tank rusted through, fuel Iine solidified with impenetrable sediment, fuel sending unit rusted out, carbs "varnished over"/stuck, etc. Mechanic was hired to get it "moving/salable" by next owner, at which point I bought the car as a retirement project.
Depends how “rust - phobic”, to coin a term, you might be, vs. just driving and enjoying the car, as I do.
As part of my due diligence almost two years ago, I ran this past “our” 356 guru before I bought it. I was looking for a "project car to play with" in retirement. The Guru has seven 356s; A’s, 2 speedsters, two Convertible Ds, and is considered a “subject matter expert. He advised me to just enjoy the car - “patch it if it bothers you, but at least nothing is disguised by new undercoat!” Not being a megabuck speedster, he didn’t feel “chasing rust 60 years after the fact was worthwhile” (in my case).
One can choose "to fight rust or ride it”! Your opinion may differ, of course. I must say, no one ever complimenting the car has ever crawled under it to inspect for rust at any car show, and it certainly does not happen during the many “roll-up” compliments it garners in traffic.
The jack point is a separately welded piece (area with rectangular hole), as is the longitudinal's “end cap”, or “closure”, as well as the entire longitudinal - all available individually from Stoddard NLA Parts - great folks to deal with. IIRC, the last time I inquired, the longitudinal was ~$400, the end plate ? $40?
IMG_9338.jpeg
@rwilson5717 Last 4 pics were intended, in part, to show portions of "rear" of car. Not shown is a rather "charming" , small metal patch over battery compartment area (typical) IIRC, that is secured by slotted sheet metal screws. FWIW, Looks every bit as having been done "back in the day".
Bid in the amount of $28,356
@rwilson5717 Car designed and built to be 6 volt based on then perceived contemporary needs, electrical demands, efficiency and "lightness", so I saw no need to convert to 12 volt system; good enough for Porsche, good enough for me - especially in absence of contemporary night driving. Now, if you wish to add "modern" electrical loads, a conversion to 12 volt would be fairly easy to do.
@Fed Please see previous two replies.
@leftlane Thank you. Sorry for late reply. HQ neglected to "authorize me as owner", so blocked any ability to "reply"! 100+ pis submitted over almost a week. Looks like a few did not transmit/post satisfactorily. Nothing to hide, having been a "Rust Wrangler" at one point, myself. Personally, have decided at my age to "Ride the Rust" rather than "chase it", trying to repeal the Second Law of Thermo-dyanamics - which is the one I think applies, IIRC Physics 101.
Further pics have to go through them for posting, so apparently no time to get undercarriage views, but will try. Time zone difference not helpful.
Paint, interior and all initial mechanical refurb seems most likely to have been ~15 years ago, by date code ('05) on virtually new looking tires (according to my local tire shop) that were on car when I bought it.
Rust in rear section of passenger longitudinal circumscribed by densely packed "mud wasp nests"/ ? repetitively seasonal for unknown number of years, depositing moisture- laden "mud" up against end cap area; just speculating - could be "normal" oxidation/condensation
etiology in a closed, unprotected, enclosure made from sheet metal. I left one small nest intact in right front fender well for the sake of "automotive archeology".
@leftlane Sorry for late reply. HQ inadvertently never "activated me" as owner, so "not allowed in to comment"!
Car was repainted about 12-15 years ago by long-deceased owner (based on date code of virtually new tires '05 according to local tire store. Details / records/ photos buried with him.
Bid in the amount of $15,000
Bid in the amount of $4,000
Bid in the amount of $3,606
This appears to be a reasonable starting point for a good outlaw or resto-mod. It would be nice to have some more pictures on the back of the undercarriage where rust tends to collect and can affect the rear end of the car. Also need to look at the front end better where rust will occur around the areas of the pedals and tunnel which would require some hard work. Will be interested in seeing what happens the last 5 minutes of this auction. Interior is worth more than the current bid.... not sure why still a 6 volt, but logos news is the radio and clock don’t work so can restore to 12 volt pretty easily. GLWA
@outlawmaven can you give us some more details about the rust?
Bid in the amount of $3,356
Nice looking build, you state : "few small areas of rust" (detailed images are provided in the photo gallery). Can you point me to the photo numbers and the location of the rust? Looking for more details, it seems strange after a fresh respray you are having rust appear. Was the car taken down to metal, rust repaired / corrected and repainted? Or was it painted over original paint? Any photos of the paint stages / details? Dont get me wrong I like the car, just wanting to understand the process.